Demigny, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy
Organic certified, biodynamic practising
Jean-Yves Devevey came recommended to us via a mutual contact and as I, rather embarrassingly, had never tasted the wines before, I was unsure what to expect after struggling to find much information online. It didn’t take long to realise we were in the presence of a genius winemaker (and it turns out, extremely cult winemaker in France). The tasting was incredible, we were just blown away and quite gobsmacked by his wines, in particular the whites from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune.
The potential of the Hautes Côtes has been a popular conversation topic for a number of years but never has it been so clearly demonstrated again and again, wine after wine than chez Devevey. I don’t even think of these wines as being exceptional for their appellation, they are exceptional full stop.
The domaine was certified organic in 2014 and Jean-Yves is experimenting with biodynamic practises.
All of the white wines see a long élevage in barrel and sur lies which makes them excellent candidates for low sulphur additions; Jean-Yves has experimented with varying levels of sulphur and has found that repeatedly 1mg/l offers the most precision, salinity and terroir expression. He has also discovered that the wines he makes from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune cope extremely well with very low or zero sulphur additions, whereas other wines in the range tend to need slightly higher dosages – he’s not exactly sure why this is but puts it down to the soil type and selection of vines.
There is nothing funky about these low sulphur wines. They are bright, fresh, lively and energetic; as the best natural wines should be.
The style is on the reductive side (no bâtonnage, long time on lees) so the wines need a bit of oxygen to open up. A decant or opening the bottle an hour or so in advance is advised.